Onomichi Travelogue (2) – Mountains in Onomichi

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We had fine weather on the day after we arrived in Onomichi. We went to Senkoji Temple on that day. Our plan was: 1) going up to a mountaintop (Senkoji Park) using a ropeway; 2) visiting Onomichi City Museum of Art and then Senkoji Buddhist temple; and 3) going down to the foot of the mountain through Neko-no-Hosomichi (a narrow path for cats). We were able to take a look out over the townscape of Onomichi and the seascape of the Inland Sea including the various sizes of islands in the sea.

Please look at this steep slope! I saw the slope before I reached a ropeway boarding place. There are many steep slopes here and there.

We reached the boarding place. It takes about 3 minutes to reach the mountaintop. The ropeway usually runs every 15 minutes, but it was run nonstop because of so many people on that day.

We enjoyed wonderful scenery from the ropeway. The bridge that you see on the back of the photo is Onomichi Bridge linking Onomichi to Mukaijima Island. There are many islands including Innoshima Island and Ikuchijima Island around there, and the islands are linked to each other by a bridge to form a Shimanamikaido route to link Honshu to Shikoku.

We reached the mountaintop (Senkoji Park). A big white observation platform, named “PEAK” (Senkoji Mountaintop Observation Platform) stood in front of us, when we got off the ropeway. The height above sea level is 144.2 meters there. We thoroughly enjoyed superb views including the Seto Inland Sea, Onomichi Channel, a number of islands in the Inland Sea, and mountains in Shikoku. How beautiful the view was!

After enjoying the views of the Inland Sea, we went down to Onomichi City Museum of Art. The road sloped gradually to the museum, and there was a small park from which we can look out over the sea on our way to the museum. The trees from which leaves fell are cherry trees, and is also a place famous for its cherry blossoms. The mountain views were as beautiful as the sea views.
Onomichi City Museum of Art was opened in 1980 by the grassroot movement of Onomichi citizens. A big cat figure welcomed us at the entrance of the museum. We can also look out over the beautiful seascape from the lobby on the second floor.

Since long ago, Onomichi, an important transport hub, has prospered, and in years past there were many wealthy merchants. They spent generously their wealth to build temples, or to improve or maintain the town. For that reason, many temples still exist in Onomichi. Senkoji Temple is one of those temples, and is a Singon Sect temple founded in 806 by Kobo Daishi (Saint Kobo).

Precincts Map

The road leading to Senkoji Temple was very steep, it was a downward slope, though. You can see a big rock, named “Tsuzumiiwa Rock,” projecting out toward the sea, while going down the slope. It’s said that when you hit the rock, you can hear sounds similar to those heard from a tsuzumi (a hand drum used in a Japanese traditional music) when you tap it. I tried it, but I couldn’t hear the tsuzumi sound.
The most outstanding place in the precincts is an aggregation of big rocks, named Kusariyama. The place was originally a training place for trainee monks. The training was climbing the big rocks with the aid of chains. If you wish to climb the rocks, you can do it using the chains. You must see the different beautiful views from the top of the rocks.
Thirty-three Kannon (Avalokiteshvara) images are deified in Sanjyusan Kannondo Hall. It is said that when you make the sounds of the big juzu (Buddhist rosary or beads) hanging in front of the hall door, your evil passions are negated and you will be happy.
A big stone having a girth of 50 meters and a height of 15 meters is called Tamanoiwa Rock or Eboshiiwa Rock, and some said that the stone had a precious stone illuminating far away on its top. The name of Senkoji Temple is originated from this legend. The red Chinese styled bell tower, called “Kyoonro,” is familiarly known by Onomichi people as “Toki-no-Kane” (a bell informing the time of day), which has informed Onomichi people the time of day since the first year of the Genroku Era (1688-1704).
The main hall of this temple was built in 1686, and is located on a steep hillside overlooking the town of Onomichi. Views seen from this hall built on the sheer cliff as if it hugs to the mountain surfaceare, of course, picturesque scenery, but the appearance of the hall itself is also wonderful! I found stone Buddhist images and stone statues here and there in the precincts and mountain paths.
Senkoji Temple is located on the rocky mountain, and so has a quite different atmosphere from those of temples I’ve visited. I’m impressed and think about how persons of long ago carried materials to half-way the steep mountain and built the temple there.

Then, we went down to the foot of the mountain via a famous narrow path called “Neko-no-Hosomichi” (a narrow path for cats). There were many cats on the path before. Many people, including tourists, however, have recently known that many cats can be seen on the path, and thus the number of people (especially tourists) visiting the path has been increased. Now, unfortunately, we can’t see any cats on the path. But people living there drew cat pictures on the path or decorated the path with cute cat objects or paintings to make the path interesting and cute.

Next, we went to the sea.